The pages in this website should testify adequately and
one should have little doubt that Linda & I enjoy traveling.
We count ourselves blessed to have seen more than we ever thought we would.
As my retirement draws nearer I continue to nurse a "bucket list".
I would not consider myself unique or even unusual to have personal
dreams and ambitions to one day skipper a sailboat to faraway locations.
The lure of sailing the Caribbean or maybe the Mediterranean is strong.
That's not an idle fantasy for me though it might prove impractical and foolish.
Being raised on the seacoast and spending many days on a motorboat as taught
me to have great respect for the sea and appreciation for reliable equipment.
Even so, we are not getting younger so the time to pursue this adventure is near.
I haven't had opportunity to spend time on a sailboat and don't know how to sail one.
I'm not even sure if I can singlehandle a small sailboat in the open seas.
Nor am I certain Linda shares this dream with anything near my enthusiasm.
However, she has let me know she has no interest in becoming a deck hand.
One thing I am sure of ... I cannot afford a new or even recently-new yacht.
I have been encouraged through continuing internet searches of used sailboats and
located some that I can afford. But this comes as a mixed blessing ... questions:
what size?
which make and model represents quality and seaworthiness?
which is ready-to-sail and which is a "project" boat?
where do I store the yacht?
Attempts to determine answers to those questions became stalled by the foreign
language nauticalese. I had to check references to understand the differences
between "sloop" and "ketch", "cutter" and "gaff" rig, or "genoa" and "jib".
There are bewildering numbers of makes and models and sizes all unknown to me.
Is it possible for a novice to determine the "Fords" from the "Mercedes"?
Fortunately there are some books that have been written to help answer these questions.
At least these can serve as an initial guide in my search.
The first book I recommend is "20 Small Sailboats To Take You Anywhere" by John Vigor.
It was written in 1999 (10 years ago) and is a bit dated.
Vigor rates the list in favor of larger, heavier sailboats that critics maintain perform
poorly in light winds.
The prices are those advertised on the internet Dec. 2008.
Some are for "project" boats and others are "ready-to-sail".
A few smaller ones come with trailers, but most are "as is - where is".
20 Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere
John Vigor (1999)
This lists seaworthy small sailboats capable of crossing oceans.
All boats on the list have crossed oceans and are seaworthy enough to sail around the world. That said, good bigger boats are more seaworthy than good smaller boats.
But bigger boats are more expensive to buy and maintain and harder to handle or singlehand.
Most are old fiberglass hull designs with long, proven production runs.
Many with higher seaworthy ratings are heavyweights overbuilt/ballasted to take a pounding but perform poorly in light winds or upwind (so must often use power).
1-Alberg 30 (loa-303; lwl-218; b-89; d-43; w-#9,000; s-410sf; safe 8/20) $12-28K
Improved after hull 410. Weak: mast support, rudder fittings, rudder itself, tiller head fitting, chainplates, gas tanks rust, weak wooden spreaders, mail roller furling
2-Albin Vega 27 (loa-271; lwl-23; b-8; d-3; w-#5070; s-341sf; safe 6/20) $7.5-18K
Weak: rudder fittings, deck core saturation, mast bulkhead support failure (install post)
3-Allied Seawind II 32 (loa-317; lwl-256; b-105; d-46; w-#14,900; s-512sf; safe 4/20) $59K Expensive. Weak: narrow deck side; tight engine compartment; poor anchor rode design
4-Bristol 27 (loa-272; lwl-199; b-8; d-4; w-#6,600; s-340sf; safe 15/20) $2-15K
Weak: initially tender (unstable), buy inboard motor model, hull-deck joints fail/leak, main boom roller - install slab reef, poor cabin ventilation, iron ballast rust - install lead
5-Bristol Channel Cutter 32 (loa-379 [sprit]; lod-27; lwl-263; b-101; d-410;
w-#14,000; s-556sf; 27hp; safe 1/20) Very Expensive. Weak: working jib on bowsprit
6-Cal 20 (loa-200; lwl-180; b-70; d-34; w-#1950; s-196sf; safe 19/20) Weak: plyboard core foredeck rot, spreader brackets crack, excessive lee or weather helm - keel alignment corrects this, raced boats develop loose deck attachment points. Caution: many experts agree this sailboat should not have been on this list - too small, light.
7-Cape Dory 25D (loa-250; lwl-190; b-80; d-36; w-#5,120; s-304sf; safe 13/20) $14-15K Weak: galley sink access, limited water storeage, no nav/chart table
8-Catalina 27 (loa-2610; lwl-219; b-86; d-35[shoal] or 40; w-#6850; s-340sf; safe 20/20) $5-22K Weak: backing plates for deck fittings, no bridge deck [must keep companionway hatches placed] , need to install bronze thru-hull seacocks, poor designed icebox drain. Major work to make sailboat blue water ready. Caution: some experts agree this sailboat should not have made this list. Too much retrofit to make seaworthy.
9-Contessa/J.J.Taylor 26 (loa-256; lwl-210; b-76; d-40; w-#5400; s-280sf; safe-11/19) $11-24K Weak: balsa core deck/coachplates rot; build aft keel shoe to keep stray lines jaming rudder; scuppers drain poorly; reinforce rudder attachment known to separate in heavy seas.
10-Contessa 32 (loa-320; lwl-240; b-96; w-#9,600; s-562sf; safe-2/20) $31-76K Weak: limited water storage, weak chainplates, port double berth really single, reinforce bow for heavy sea work, forestay tack fitting weak, lower pintle unreachable
11-Dana 24 (loa-273; lod-242 (bowsprit); lwl-215; b-87; d-310; w-#8,000; s-358sf; safe-16/20) $44-135K Weak: expensive
12-Falmouth Cutter 22 (loa-306; lod-220 (bowsprit); lwl-200; b-80; d-36; w-#7,400; s-403sf; safe14/20) $44-60K Weak: exposed cockpit
13-Flicka 20 (loa-24; lod-20 (bowsprit); lwl-182; b-80; d-33; w-#6,000; s-243sf; safe-17/20) $15-47K Weak: smallness, difficult to haul shore tender, ungimbaled stove, initially tender, tends to hobbyhorse in choppy seas
14-Folkboat 25 (loa-251; lwl-198; b-79; d-311; w-#4,322; s-258sf; safe-9/20) W-$4-8K/FG-$45K Weak: cramped saloon (48 headroom), core decks rot, exposed cockpit
15-Frances/Morris 26 (loa-260; lwl-213; b-82; d-310; w-#6,800; s-327sf; safe-10/20)
Weak: expensive, not many available (200 built-some were project kits) $35-45K Note: double ender, 51% weight below waterline - high ultimate stabilty
16-Nicholson 31 (loa-307; lwl-242; b-103; d-50; w-#14,750; s-500sf; safe-3/20)
$24-50K Designed as ocean cruiser. Weak: heavyweight - needs large headsails in light wind, expensive; replace miserable icebox; check for propane shut-off valve installation
17-Pacific Seacraft 25 (loa-263; lod-246 (bowsprit); lwl-21; b-8; d-33; w-#4,750; s-250sf; safe-18/20) $15-25K Weak: cockpit floor leaks (its the large, hard to seal engine cover); no bridgedeck - close & seal sliding hatches at sea or saloon soaks; poor headroom below
18-Pearson Triton 28 (loa-286; lwl-206; b-83; d-4; w-#8,000; s-362sf; safe-12/20) $6-17K Weak: delamination of decks/coachroof, early models corroded ballast bolts, mast compression fails beam - fit compression post mast to keel, rigging tangs weak, wooden rudder rots, hull/bulkhead fatigue due to age (last one built 1967)
19-Southern Cross 31 (loa-310; lwl-25; b-96; d-47; w-#13,600; s-447sf; safe-7/20) $33K Weak: core decks rot, replace acohol stove w/propane or kerosene, hull integrity (plastic foam core), heaviness struggles upwind. Note: double ender, strong bridgedeck, right sized cockpit, designed as ocean cruiser
20-Westsail 32 (loa-320 [bowsprit], lwl-276, b-110, d-5, s-663sf, w-#20,000!, safe-5/20) $21-71K Weak: low powered motor, toerails leak, plywood deck/coachroof rot, bowsprit/Sampson post rot, hull blistering, through-deck hardware seal fails, standing rigging ends corrosion, 3-blade prop drags, very heavy. Note: double ender, heaviest on this list, struggles upwind, designed as rugged North Sea/ocean cruiser. (Hulls WSSF factory-finished, WSSK sold as project kits) Volvo Penta MD2 is inadequate power - Perkins 4-107 preferred.
The second book I recommend was written a little later.
Gregg Nestor definitely favors larger, heavier sailboats for ocean cruising.
Interior space and creature comforts figure into his evaluations.
Still, Nestor listed some that would have met Vigor's small sailboat criteria.
It is his definition of "affordable" that merits scrutiny and judgment.
I have learned that used sailboats are sold by the pound, not the foot.
Also, some initially expensive makes/models do not maintained their value.
Even in yachts known for quality design and construction there are caveats.
I am cautioned against buying sailboats used as racers and/or poorly maintained.
Making purchasing contracts subject to professional survey results is virtually required.
20 AFFORDABLE SAILBOATS TO TAKE YOU ANYWHERE
GREGG NESTOR
Generally larger, safer sailboats than John Vigors list but not all are ideal singlehandlers
1-Alberg 35
2-Allied Princess 38
3-Baba 30 ($39-72K)
4-Bayfield 32 ($27-52K)
5-Bristol 35.5 ($49-74K)
6-C&C Landfall (35 $39-49K/38 $39-79K)
7-Cape Dory 33 ($38-72K)
8-Cheoy Lee Clipper 33 ($28-59K)
9-CSY 37 ($59-75K)
10-Endeavour 37 ($23-74K)
11-Island Packet 31 ($39-79) loa-345; lod-31; b-116
12-Islander 32 MkII ($13-19K)
13-Luders 33 ($22-32K)
14-Morgan 382 ($34-110K)
15-Niagara 35 ($29-98K)
16-Pacific Seacraft 31 ($45-95K)
17-Pearson 35 ($10-44K)
18-S2 11.0 ($39-54K)
19-Tartan 34 ($20-64K)
20-Valiant 32 ($34-64K)
Besides these two sources there is another much longer list located on the web at:
http://www.mahina.com/boats.html
Another sailboat list is located on the web at:
http://www.johnsboatstuff.com/Articles/lowcost.htm
Another sailboat list is located on the web at:
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/forest/2727/flicka_possibilities.html#Cape_Dory
Desirable Attributes of a Blue-water cruising Sailboat
http://www.callipygia600.com/callnugget/allcruising/boatfind.htm
In doing our research prior to shopping for a sailboat that would carry us across oceans, we developed a list of desirable attributes to guide our boat search. These attributes are shown below--not exactly in priority order, although those listed first were deemed more important than those listed later--because for the most part they were integral to the boat and couldn't be added by later if they wanted. Callipygia (a Tayana 37 cutter-rig) passed this list with flying colors, and in all our travels we never saw another boat we'd rather have had. A major resource in developing the list was the book by John Vigor "The Seaworthy Offshore Sailboat: A Guide to Essential Features, Handling and Gear." At the front of this book, there is a really neat 100-question test/quiz which gives you a quick determination of the blue-water seaworthiness of you and your boat.
Affordable. Can we afford to buy and maintain this boat without borrowing or overextending ourselves financially?
Pleasing to the eye. Can we love this boat--we know there will be issues with her, so she has to make our hearts smile while we work through them and accept them or else we'll get disatisfied and grumpy. [During our 4 years with Callipygia, we never saw another boat we'd rather have had.]
35' - 40' on deck. Big enough to be sea-kindly and safe in bad weather, yet small enough for one of us to single-hand if we had to.
Cutter rig. Easy sailplan for reducing sail. High-modulus running rigging better than polyester lines.
Good survey. Sound condition and structure, and a dry boat. No need to keep everything wrapped in plastic. Hire reputable, independent surveyor who understands/evaluates motor condition.
Good ventilation and no air conditioning. No thank you, we have no need for the noise or electrical requirements of air-conditioning, we'll settle instead for a few fans and good ventilation.
Heavy displacement cruiser with a full keel and attached rudder. Able to take care of us in bad weather while we hunker down below.
Inboard diesel engine powered at not less than 3 hp/ton. Sufficient power to make our way motoring or motor-sailing when necessary, or to power up and get out of a tight spot.
Solid fiberglass [not plywood laminate] or composite-layer-over-honeycomb hull. Easy to maintain.
Fiberglass deck (not teak). Easy to maintain, and no leaks. Textured walks to prevent slipping.
Plenty of accessible and well-ventilated storage. This is our home, so we need enough room for books (we had 24 linear feet) and other comforts, plus all the spares, tools, etc. for blue-water cruising.
6" Bulwarks with scuppers. Good solid footing while walking around the deck, and good drainage in downpours or shipping green water.
8 strong through-bolted deck cleats with backplates. Strong attachments for docklines and anchor snubber. [Callipygia only had 6.]
Squared off coach roof/cabin top. Strongest configuration for a knockdown (which thankfully we didn't experience.)
Boom gallows. Solid support for boom in a storm, and great extra handhold in cockpit or on deck.
Dual bow anchors, one with minimum of 200' chain. Second anchor for storm conditions, and plenty of chain for normal conditions. [Callipygia had only 170' of chain on primary anchor (plus 200' 3-strand nylon line) but there were a couple of times when we wished we had another 50' of chain.]
100 gallon fuel tank. Enough to give us a range of at least 500 miles under power.
Two 50-gallon water tanks. Enough to last the two of us 3-4 weeks without rain catching, or backup in case one tank gets contaminated or emptied.
Small aft cockpit with 4 drains and strong padeyes for attachment. Comfortable and safe for whoever's on watch, and safe in a seaway, with ability to drain fast if much water is shipped.
Carbon-fiber preferred but at least Aluminum keel-stepped mast. Minimal maintenance and more support than deck-stepped.
Good handholds and footspace on deck for moving around. Essential for safety. Good handholds and headroom below. Headroom for a 6' person, and solid handholds for moving around below when the seas are up.
Manual windlass. A bit more work for anchoring, but no likelihood of sticking in a dangerous situation.
Sails: Laminated with taffeta outer layer for chaff & UV protection.
Sails: Jib with roller furling. Easy to handle from the cockpit.
Sails: Staysail that hanks on. Bulletproof system, no furling gear to jam, and easy to remove and switch to storm jib.
Sails: Storm jib. For use on the inner forestay (replacing the staysail) in storm situations--the Tayana 37' heaves to well with this configuration.
Sails: Storm trysail with separate mast track. For use in a storm, without having to remove the mainsail. Also, useful for stability while sailing downwind.
Dodger, splash cloths, and bimini. Dodger with easy visibility forward to keep the wind out of the cockpit, and along with splash cloths keep crew in the cockpit dry when water is shipped, and Bimini to shade us from the tropical sun.
Folding mast steps. A great assist while going up the mast, and providing essential footholds while working up or on the mast.
V-berth with double bed on one side, all berths accommodating 6'. Good space to snuggle, and comfort for tall crew.
Manual bilge pump in cockpit and below as backup to the automatic bilge pump.
Ability to manually empty the bilges from the cockpit.
Refrigerator. Minimal electrical requirements but yet enough space to keep stuff cool, but no need for a freezer.
Starting battery separate from house batteries with a battery monitoring system. Enough electrical storage to light and cool the boat, plus run our basic electrical equipment without excessive recharging requirements. Easy way to tell the condition of the batteries (input, output, voltage, status)
Autopilot. To relieve the helmsman when under power.
Windvane. To relieve the helmsman while sailing without drainingn the battery.
Mast pulpits. Security while working at the mast. We didn't want all the lines coming to the cockpit, because we think it's important to get used to working at the mast--so it will be more familiar in those cases when something jams or otherwise goes amuk.
Swim ladder - An easy to drop and retrieve swim ladder on the side of the boat.
Lee cloths/Lee boards for the cabin berths. Comfort and security for the crew to sleep below.
3-burner propane stove with oven. Able to cook pretty much whatever we want.
Instructions for all the equipment. So we can figure out how to fix things, or find out where to go for advice and spares.
Maintenance record. To know how old the rigging is, what the service record is for the engine, hull, plumbing, and electrical system, etc.
Cabin heater. Keep us warm in cold nights or in the winter.
Liferaft, MOB module, flares, fire blanket, propane and CO detectors, and fire extinguishers. Essential safety equipment.
Manual and sea water pump in galley. Ability to pump fresh water if the electric pump fails, or seawater to minimize fresh water use.
Radios--marine SSB with ham bands and GMDSS VHF. Essential communication equipment.
Dinghy with motor. Ability to get around when at anchor.
Radar. Essential for navigation at night when near land, or in shipping areas, or of course in fog. Also a tremendous assist when approaching an unfamiliar harbor with a hard-to-find entrance, or entering or leaving an anchorage at night.
Wind instruments (vane and speed) and depth sounder.
Depth sounder essential, wind instruments very helpful.
Bug screens on portholes, hatches and dorades. Let the air in, and keep the buggers out.
